Jersey was still the staple of the House of Chanel, but the Russian look became so popular that Marie, along with designers and technicians, grew her business to fifty or so employees producing beadwork and embroidery - naming her company Kitmir. Her wish was obeyed, her orders prevailed, her word overruled all else… From the start, Chanel was completely in charge of her collection.” Wallach describes Chanel’s command of her workroom like this: “No matter what aristocratic titles her employees held, it was Chanel who reigned supreme. Marie was always aware she was under the watchful eye of Coco. Tunic, kasha-colored khaki, skirt buttoned on the side with a leather belt. As the embroidered look became popular, they expanded their vocabulary to include patterns copied from Chinese vases, Coptic weaves, Oriental rugs, Indian jewelry, and Persian miniatures.”Ī sketch appearing in Vogue (1922). Janet Wallach states: “They began by embroidering blouses and traditional Russian tunics, and soon expanded their efforts to jackets and coats worked with passementerie, and to evening chemises studded with bugle beads and pearls. So, with a few skilled friends, she opened a workshop. She offered to charge less than what Chanel’s French seamstresses were charging for embroidery and beadwork - Chanel hired her. Considering her background, Marie was never a big fan of public taste, never the less, she saw the sense in catering to it. Chanel’s business sense was to cater to the public in a broader sense-making the chic Chanel standard to appeal to every woman’s taste. Her close observation of Mlle Chanel’s work ethic, how she ran her business, and her dogged determination were attributes that Marie could understand. The Duchess decided that the new social and economic situation in life was not going to force her to just give up. We had to take them off now, make ourselves others, more everyday clothes.” She wrote about her family this way: “We had been torn out of our brilliant setting, we had been driven off the stage still dressed in our fantastic costumes. Marie had been forced to sell her jewels to support her family and brother - lamenting that the days of living amidst royalty and the European courts were over. Much the way Chanel felt when she began, the Duchess wanted to earn her own living and pay her own way.
CHANEL RUSSIAN COLLECTION HOW TO
Part of the Duchess’ proper education was to learn how to sew and she was skilled in the art of embroidery. Marie would become an influencer in Chanel’s Russian designs. A sketch of what that looked like.ĭimitri’s sister, Grand Duchess Marie, also in exile, lived in Paris and often visited the Chanel studio on rue Cambon. In Harper’s Bazaar, Chanel was shown in a short dark tunic and pleated skirt with ropes of pearls. Quoiting Chanel, “Why does all I do become Byzantine?” The Byzantine style of some of the pieces Dimitri had given her would make its way into her line of jewelry that was to come years later. He showered Chanel with ropes of fabulous pearls, chains of heavy gold, crosses covered with rubies, emeralds and semi-precious stones. Although, he did depart Russia with a stash of precious jewels. Previous to fleeing Russia, Dimitri had been one of that country’s richest men, member of the elite Russian Guards Regiment, grandson to Tsar Alexander II, and first cousin to Tsar Nicholas II, but was now nearly penniless. Mlle Chanel liked his style, that of a true aristocrat, raised by English nurses in a vast St. Chanel and the handsome Dimitri, eleven years her junior, with his Slavic charm and the mystery that surrounded him, were inseparable for only one year, but they too would remain loyal friends thereafter. Her liaison with Stravinsky would end, but they would remain friends. Chanel was involved with Igor Stravinsky at the time, but that didn’t stop her from pursuing Dimitri. Shown wearing her evening pajamas - with bolero jacket and trousers.Īt the time of their meeting, Dimitri was Marthe’s lover, but soon Chanel lured him away with Marthe’s blessings, reportedly saying he had become too expensive for her. Chanel gazing into the eyes of Grand Duke Dimitri.
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